DIY Camera Slider (Motorized)
Mark the place on top, where you want the fix the camera head. Create a flat hole to give your double sided camera screw some Space. Then pre-drill a smaller hole to be able to drill it in. Be careful to screw it in as even and tight as possible. Now turn your slider on the backside. The quality of a camera slider is highly associated with its sliding mechanism. To obtain a high quality footage it is necessary to make the slider slide smoothly over the rails. To make it possible we are have mounted a ball bearing to each corner of the wooden block which is first sanded down to 45 degree angle using a file.
Camera sliders are excellent creative tools that can really improve your filmmaking. Whether you're starting a YouTube channel or making a short filmsliders are a great way to add a bit of variety to your shots.
What analog channels are in my area sure you watch our full video tutorial below, or keep reading for the full written tutorial. Put simply, a slider is a tool for adding movement to your shots.
Sliders can be as simple as pushing a camera on a table, or incredibly large devices, able to support a camera rig. Sliders can be purchased or made in a variety of sizes and configurations. The most common is a linear sliderdesigned to take a small payload camera such as a DSLR or mirrorless camera. It's possible to purchase a larger slider known as a "dolly" or sliders with curved how to make a diy camera slider or motors -- but these are even more expensive to purchase and complicated to operate.
The slider we're looking at today is a very simple one: good enough to move a small camera left or right, and nothing more. You may be wondering why what do you feed a 6 week old kitten worth bothering with a DIY slider.
There are thousands of sliders made by hundreds of manufacturers. Making your own slider is a fun way to get a good slider without breaking the bank. This is a simple project, but it does require a few components that you may not already own. Of course, this price assumes you can purchase one or two of each component -- you may have to visit a local hardware store if you don't wish to buy in bulk!
Let's break down these parts. As I live in Europe, I've provided component specifications in the metric system of measurement. If your country does not use the metric system, you can substitute most of these parts for a local equivalent, but you may have to experiment to find similar sizes.
The v-slot aluminum extrusion is the "rails" of the slider. This is what the wheels will sit how to make a diy camera slider, and will ensure the slider movement is smooth and steady. The outer diameter needs to be 20mm squareand each length needs to be mm long. If you want to make a longer or shorter slider, then increase these lengths accordingly.
If you'd like to know more about v-slot, then make sure you check out our guide to v-slot aluminum extrusion. The dual-v wheels are manufactured to fit in how to palm read yourself groove in the v-slot. You can purchase these in either metal or plastic, just make sure you get four wheels with a pair of bearings for each wheel. Don't cut corners here, as premium bearings will directly increase the quality and smoothness of the slider.
The drop-in t-nuts are very cool. These will bolt the 3D printed frame sections to the v-slot. Once tightened, they rotate and lock against the v-slot, providing a secure fixture. The Nyloc nuts secure the bearings to the carriage the part the camera will sit on.
If you've never used a Nyloc or locknut before, you use them exactly like a regular nut. The difference is that Nylocs have a plastic insert that resists movement, meaning you don't have to tighten the nuts right up against the bearings which could impede their ability to spin freely. Finally, you will mount the slider on top of the tripod, and the ball head will sit on the slider with your camera on top.
This means you can freely rotate and adjust the angle of the camera, increasing the flexibility of the slider. In addition to these parts, you'll need a few basic how to make a very easy robot for kids. Two allen keys and a spanner in suitable sizes will be enough.
While it's possible to make this slider in wood, plastic, or metal, I highly recommend you use the set of 3D printed parts. You can download the. Don't worry if you don't own a 3D printer! Online services 3D Hubs and Shapeways provide online printing services for reasonable prices. If you're new to 3D printing, make sure you read our guide to 3D printing. When printing these parts, take note of their correct orientations. Print all the parts upright, and not laying down flat.
I found this out the hard way: 3D printed parts are structually weak along the Z axis up and down. If you print these parts laying flat, this fault line is right along the critical corner -- the parts will break!
The carriage is the part that moves. The camera will sit on this, and the bearings and wheels need to be bolted to it. Identify the top and bottom of the main carriage plate. The top has countersunk holes for the bolts to fit into. Insert the four M5 x 30mm countersunk allen bolts so that the heads are flush with the top surface.
Flip the carriage over be careful the bolts don't fall outso that the bottom is now facing up. Now add a wheel assembly to each bolt. Each wheel will come pre-assembled, and should consist of a wheel with two bearings inside:. Add the M5 Nyloc nuts and tighten them up. Don't over tighten! The Nylocs will not work loose. Tighten them just enough to stop the wheels from wobbling, but not so tight that the wheels do not spin.
Give each wheel a spin with your finger, and ensure it can rotate freely and smoothly. If not, simply back off the nut until it does but not so much as to introduce wobble. You will need to use a spanner and allen key to tighten the Nylocs. This should protrude through the top surface.
This may be a tight fit, so use an allen key if you need to. It's a straightforward process to assemble the frame. The v-slot rail needs to be bolted to the interior side of the frame what to sell for fast cash. If you're making a longer slider, you may need to print more frame supports, to strengthen the slider.
As it is, three frame supports is sufficient for a mm slider. Roughly line up the frame supports and v-slot, ensuring that the frame support with the tripod mounting hole is in the middle of the slider.
Insert the M5 x 10mm countersunk allen bolts from the outside of the frame supports. Install an M5 Tee nut on the inside of the frame, but don't tighten it too far.
Slide the v-slot over the tee nuts and then tighten everything down. The tee nuts will automatically rotate to 90 degrees and lock against the inside edge of the v-slot. Now that the slider is assembled, it's time to finish it off. Add the carriage into the frame from one end -- it will only fit in one orientation. Slowly slide it back and forth to ensure it moves smoothly. If it doesn't, remove it and double check that:. Once the carriage is sliding smoothly, add several rubber bands over each end.
These serve two purposes: they prevent the carriage and your camera from falling off the end of the slider, and they smoothly stop the motion at each end. If you had plastic here to serve as an end stop, the carriage would come to a sudden halt, and this would show in your videos. Elastic bands allows the carriage to slow down gently. If you want to use a tripod to mount your slider, go ahead and use a nut, bolt, and washer to attach it to your tripod's quick release plate.
Any nut and bolt will do, providing it leaves enough clearance for the carriage to get past, and for the quick release plate to fit back onto the tripod. Now that you have your own slider, go out there and practice! All sliders have some degree of 'wobble' or play in the movement. With a bit of practice, you will learn what to eat during camping the sweet spot is, and how best to move the carriage to achieve the smoothest results.
This feature can really help to smooth out any slider shots. Similarly, shooting in a higher frame rate slow motion can also help to smooth out footage. If you don't own a camera yet, you should consider purchasing a tripod phone mountwhich allows you to mount your phone on this slider. There's also nothing stopping you from using a GoPro on this slider, it's just a platelets are low what does it mean of purchasing the correct mount.
But if you do want a camera and aren't sure what type of camera you should purchase, then take a look at our guide to choosing a type of camera. You'll be shooting like a pro in no time! Have you made your own camera slider? Are there any tricks we are missing? Let us know in the comments below! Apple's decision to put the M1 chip in new iPad Pro models is a game-changer. Here's why this is such a big deal. He's a professional software developer, and when he's not flying drones or writing music, he can often be found taking photos or producing videos.
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What You Need
I will leave links to all the parts here, but keep in mind this project will be different for all because I used an old broken printer of mine, so the dimensions will differ from yours! But this is what using ingenuity is all about! The cheapest way to find a sturdy metal chassis is the reuse an old printer scanning chassis! Spare parts are awesome to use, so I just had to disassemble and locate the part in my old printer that moves left and right.
The motor in the scanning chassis is a standard motor that you might find in a cheap RC car, and so the torque on it is not enough to move a camera. That is why I used a geared continuous servo motor!
They are not too expensive and the one I had fit well after using some bolt and nuts to put it in place. Also, it is important to be able to mount the driving gear on the servo! What I mean by this is the plastic gear on the shaft of the original motor, you need to mount that to your new motor so it is still compatible with chassis! Let me know if you have any questions about this! The circuitry for this project is very simple.
It essentially uses three switches, hence each paired with the 10k ohm resistors. The first main switch makes the motor go either left or right. The other two switches are on either side of the slider, and will tell the motor to stop if either one if pressed! The buzzer is optional and just for beep sounds! These are the STL files for mine, but please take note they are the first prototypes, so there are still a lot of improvements that can be done!
Soldering is used to make a smaller and more permanent form factor! I just moved all the components on the breadboard to a PCB! And I used limit switches that are more fit for the stop switches we need at each end of the slider! And also you need two mounts, one to mount your camera on and one to mount the camera slider to a tripod! Keep this in mind! Other than that assembling is tedious and time-consuming, but the result is worth it.
And do not get discouraged is it does not work out the first time! You will learn more from correcting failure than succeeding. By ardystal gysr Follow. More by the author:. About: I just created a youtube channel to give how-to's and quick previews of all the projects that I make in my garage. I decided in sign up for instructables in order to show more people my tutorials! Please suppo… More About ardystal gysr ».
I had a broken printer, and with the scanning motor chassis, I made a motorized camera slider! Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Reply Upvote. NirL 8 months ago.
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