How to shorten chair legs

how to shorten chair legs

How to Cut Bar Stools Down to Counter Height Stools

Jun 27,  · Carpenter and builder Rob Robillard from share how to use a simple shop made jig to cut down the legs on curved bar stools. Feb 15,  · HOME DESIGN AND DECORATING CHAIRS, COUCHES AND STOOLS CHAIR LEGSSave on Amazon using this link

I did a little research and came up with this method to cut them down to size. I leggs out chari buying a pull saw and two 4 foot lengths of 1 x 4 pine. I checked to make sure that the pine boards were parallel down their entire length and then I cut them both in half. The 1st bar stool had 1 snorten and 2 felt feet so I removed them with my Swiss Army Knife to allow the stool to set level on my work table.

The next step was was to set the stool back on its feet and clamp the 1 x 4's shprten the table next to the legs. It is very important that you clamp the boards to the table and not whats a good resting heart rate for a woman the stool.

This stool has legs that bow in the front and have a flare and slight twist in the back. If you shortej the boards directly to the legs you will not end up with ends that lay flat on the floor. I then took my pull saw and laid it flat on top of the 1 x 4's and cut the bottom of the leg parallel to the boards. I repeated this for each leg. Once all the legs were cut I set the bar stool on it's side and took a block plane and cut a chamfer around the bottom of each leg.

This will help to minimize the wood splitting if the stool gets drug across the floor. I also sanded the chamfer and how to shorten chair legs bottom of the leg with grit sandpaper. Now all it needs is some paint or sealer and new feet. You can watch a full video of the process here:. Introduction: How to Shorten a Bar Stool. By funwithwoodworking Follow. More by the author:. I then tightened all the screws in the stool to make it as rigid as possible.

Did you make this project? Share it with yow I Shortne It! Ant Decorations Light Up at Night. JoeP 1 year ago on Step 6. Reply Upvote.

Step 1: Prepare the Cut Guides

Take a pencil and tape it on a small block that is about the height you want the legs to shorten. Ensure that the block has parallel bottom and top planes. With the pencil on the block, scribe the legs of the table/chair and make marks all around. Cut precisely and carefully with a proper saw. Jun 06,  · Just mark the lengths carefully, measuring from the same point on the stool (be it from the bottom or the top of the legs) and carefully make the cuts. If it goes well, everything is Jake. If not, place the stool on a dead flat surface (like a cast-iron table saw top) and find out . Jun 19,  · Lay the board on its edge along the floor and hold it against the chair leg. Draw a line along where the board meets the chair leg. You may want to use the board to draw a line around all four sides of the leg- this will tell you exactly where to .

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Cutting chair legs while still attached to the chair Here's a real woodowrking dilema. I have a set of 4 chair in the kitchen. Nice comfy ones. When they made the legs they took them straight from the lathe and mounted them in the chairs, never bothering to bevel the bottoms so the spindles sit flat on the floor.

So the legs meet the floor at a point the corner of the spindle. I have tried all kinds of glides but they either wear out or break.

Now the kitchen floor has spots worn in it where the legs rub on the floor. What I would like to do, is cut the legs so they meet the floor flat. The caviat is that they must be cut while they are still glued to the chair. I have a jointer and table saw at my disposal. I have bandsaw too, but I can't see how that would work.

I'm open to suggestions and can't wait to see what you guys come up with. Google Sponsor Google Sponsor.

Join Date Apr Posts Take a thin board flat on the floor up against the leg and draw a line even with the top to get the correct angle. Possible a manual saw would work best? Anthony, I had the exact same problem with 10 dinner chairs that my wife really wanted even though the construction was not that good. I built a jig to set the chair on using the stretchers as the supports. All the legs were slightly off the surface of my level workbench and the jig kept the chair itself 'level.

I then used a piece of Baltic ply any piece of wood would do as the saw surface and my flush cut saw to saw just a bit off of each leg. They wound up all flat on the floor and level with no rocking. The jig is the time saver and provides height consistency. Don't move the jig between chairs. If the amount to take off is small, you can use PSA 80 grit sand fixed to your tablesaw under each leg. Then sand each one in iteration until you get level results. If the amount is more, than I agree with the poster below: scribe a line level with the floor.

A pencil held flat on the floor worked well for me on a rocking chair. Then just use a handsaw to cut along the scribed line. A third way is to use a flush cutting saw. You can use magnets or glue a shim close to the edge of the blade.

Hold the chair firmly against the floor and flush cut each leg in succession. Depending on how much you take off, you should save shims to put under the the cut legs while you work on the others. I thinking the workbench-stretcher jig and my father Fien Multi-master may make quick work of this, rather than trying to make something to support the chair and run it through the table saw.

Boy, am I glad I asked. I would scribe a line and trim with a good crosscut backsaw. I definitely wouldn't use a table saw though I'm fascinated by the thought of what a jig like that would look like!

I was thinking of something that would support the chair by the stretchers and be guided by the miter slot. So the jig would be T shaped.

I was running into two problems. When trying to cut the rear legs, the back of the chair would hit the table when the legs would be low enough to reach the blade. If I tried to cut the legs left and right opposed to front and back , then the upright support would need to be angled as the stretchers are no parallel to the floor. The jig would need to be angled one way for the left and the opposite for the right. I am liking the workbench-stretcher jig a while lot more as I dwell on it until I get home.

What an interesting problem. I haven't been faced with it yet, but here is how I would go about it: Set the chair on a piece of plywood large enough to accommodate the four legs with excess of a few inches. Trace legs on the plywood. Mark especially the four points that touch. Cut holes that generously allow legs to go through.

The holes should be tangent to the specially marked points. With legs pointing up, set the plywood over the legs, holding the plywood in place with a clamp on each leg.

Only the excess wood on each leg should protrude. Use a router and straight bit to flatten each leg to the plane of the plywood. What we used to do in the shop I was a partner in was to tack glue a sheet of 60 or 80 grit sandpaper to a table saw top or other perfectly flat surface. Then set the chair on the sawtop with the long leg on the paper.

Be sure all four legs are on the sawtop. One of bigger guys would then grab the longer leg, apply downward pressure and move the leg and chair back and forth sanding it shorter.

Check frequently for rocking. Once the rocking stops, you're done. Takes a couple of minutes generally. We probably did a chairs this way. Trying to saw off the minute amount of material is generally a waste of time and you end up taking too much off and creating a problem with another leg. I'm with John C, don't make this any harder than it needs to be. Scribe a line all the way around each leg, cut with a handsaw, and sand the edges smooth. I guarantee that it will be faster to cut all 16 legs than to build a jig and cut all 16 legs.

This is a great way to practice cutting to a line if you need the practice. Also, if you're off on a cut and the chair rocks Howard's advice is spot on to fix the offending leg. I'm including pictures of what I perceive to be your situation and the solutions available. When making my chairs, I usually need to trim for chair height. You may or may not need to do this. If you can sit in the chair and: your legs sit flat on the floor without putting pressure on the back of your legs when sitting back in the chair you sit comfortably without feeling like you're going to fall forwards or over backwards, then the the heights are right and the basic trim will suffice.

To do this. The first picture is a chair leg, uncut sitting on my bench. My bench is flat so I use it for reference when performing this task. If your bench is not perfectly flat, place your chair on your table saw. If the chair rocks or titters, you need to place a small wedge under the short legs to make it stable. JPG The remaining pictures show how I scribe the leg to make my cuts with a handsaw. The first picture is using an accu-scribe. The second is with a compass and the third is using a small piece of scrap with a pencil.

All three methods work equally well. Without moving the chair or wedges, scribe this line completely around each leg. Lay the chair on its side and, using a handsaw, cut each leg to the line.

Rotate the chair on its side as necessary to make your cuts for each leg. JPG leg trim2. JPG leg trim4. JPG After making your cuts, some would use a hand plane to make any small adjustments but others, as some have mentioned, use a board with sandpaper adhered to the surface and "scrub" the legs across it to remove saw marks and fine tune the cuts. When doing this, scrub the long legs until the chair sits flat then scrub all legs equal amounts until you're satisfied.

After getting the chair to sit flat, the last thing to do is use a sharp chisel to bevel the bottom corners of the legs to prevent chipping or splintering. Hope this helps I'd cut short of the scribed line and sand the rest, per Howard's suggestion.

I'd have a little heartburn with gluing sandpaper to my TS top, but I suppose it comes off easy enough. I guess you could put a piece of masonite or similar over the top and glue to that. I've been using 3m's frecut gold for ALL of my sandpaper needs save for wet-dry.

Their self-stick rolls will go on, stay on, and easily come off when you need them to. Anyone who hasn't tried the frecut gold line U, I believe is really missing out. I have no problem putting them on my tablesaw top.

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